Thessaloniki, Greece

I have entered into Greece, the last country to visit on the Balkan Peninsula.  I am kind of glad to be out of the former Yugoslavia. There were wonderful parts, but more parts that were depressing.  Greece, although in the midst of a severe financial crisis, is still much better off than Albania, Kosovo, and Macedonia.  If you were unaware of the news of the financial collapse you would be unaware of the financial collapse.  Life seems to be progressing here as normal.  The only indication that I can find of the collapse are the rents.  I am renting upscale homes, in prime locations with seaside views, for $20-$25 a day.  A bit of travel savvy I have learned in my years, bargains abound in countries with failed economies.  Just make sure the government in still in control of the country.

My first stop is Thessaloniki for some rest and relaxation.  The months and months of end-on-end travel is getting the better of me.  I am going to need some extended rest, and this is not a bad place to start.

While in Greece, I will be faced with the task of figuring out how to get through the Middle East.  Turkey looks like it may be easing up, but Iran is becoming even more of an issue.  It also seems as though the US is starting to put pressure on Pakistan, and of course, they will return in kind, and visas will be difficult to obtain there too.  C'est la vie.  The plane is starting to look like the only option.  

Stage Distance: 152 mi (244 km)
Total Distance Traveled: 21,584 mi (34,684 km) 
Countries/Territories Visited: USA, Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Uruguay, Canada, Portugal, Spain, Morocco, Gibraltar, France, Monaco, Italy, Vatican City, San Marino, Slovenia, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland, Ukraine, Transnistria, Moldova, Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo, Macedonia, Greece

Republic of Macedonia (FYROM)

I rolled into Skopje, the capital city of Macedonia (officially titled "Former Yugoslavian Republic Of Macedonia" or "FYROM"), a very nice little city.  The government here is statue crazy, they are literally everywhere.  In a four block section of downtown, there must have been over 30 statues.  I have never seen anything like it.  They often outnumber the pedestrians.  Most of the statues are normal or human size, but many of them are just enormous, look out of place, and are lit with changing colored lights.   I just can't imagine what the qualifications are to have a statue made of someone.  I did not read all the plaques, but I have to imagine there are statues of Skopje's first dentist or teacher of the year, only way to explain the need for that many of them.

While in Skopje, I ran into a motorcycle enthusiast and he gave me the full tour of the city and the surrounding countryside.  The area is just beautiful, leaves were turning, roads were rolling though nature, it was a great ride.  I was fortunate to have met him.  I would have never of found those places on my own.

One thing I will never get used to is how fast the local motorcycle guys ride at, and their aggressive use of "land sharing" or what people in the United States refer to as "that asshole who is passing between cars."  YouTube has a videos of lane sharers titled "idiots on motorcycles."  Spoiler alert, the segments usually end in a rather nasty crash.  One of which I saw in real life during my stay in Skopje.









Stage Distance: 153 mi (247 km)
Total Distance Traveled: 21,432 mi (34,440 km) 
Countries/Territories Visited: USA, Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Uruguay, Canada, Portugal, Spain, Morocco, Gibraltar, France, Monaco, Italy, Vatican City, San Marino, Slovenia, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland, Ukraine, Transnistria, Moldova, Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo, Macedonia

Albania and Kosovo

Continued down the coast and started heading inland towards Shkoder, Albania.  Once off the coast, the roads are twisty and turny single carriageways but thinner.  The drivers here, so far, seem to be rather well behaved, which is good considering their width and layout. 

Albania is home to an unusual number of Mercedes Benz vehicles (approximately 80 percent of all registered vehicles) and poverty.  The country is poor and seems to be struggling.  So then, where do all of the Mercedes come from? Well Albania is the primary depository for vehicles stolen out of Europe.  Apparently, many of the stolen vehicles are "voluntarily" stolen, which is to say, an Albanian works with an owner in Western Europe who had over bought, takes the car and papers, and gets it re-registered in their home country; the "victim" in turn reports it as stolen to their insurance company and escapes a crushing month payment. Albania's loose laws (and morals) makes this all possible.  

Albania

The following day I rolled into Kosovo.  The Country, or what I saw of it, was nothing special.  Nice scenery, poverty, and questionable road work ruled the day.  There was one road that was just beautiful, brand new, up to full European standards, and in no way was built by Kosovo.  Many of these poorer countries have other countries build roads for them in exchange for political favors to be called in at a latter time, and roads like this exist in both Albania and Kosovo.

Pritzen, Kosovo

Clearly, Kosovo is in Need of Some Better Project Managers

Stage Distance: 249 mi (402 km)
Total Distance Traveled: 21,279 mi (34,193 km) 
Countries/Territories Visited: USA, Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Uruguay, Canada, Portugal, Spain, Morocco, Gibraltar, France, Monaco, Italy, Vatican City, San Marino, Slovenia, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland, Ukraine, Transnistria, Moldova, Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo

Kotor, Montenegro

Ran down the coast to the very new country of Montenegro.  During a 15-year span, the Country changed status no less than 4 times (Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia till 1992, The Republic of Yugoslavia till 2003, Serbia and Montenegro till 2007, and then the Republic of Montenegro) until it settled into its current status in 2006, 2007, or 2011 depending on which metric is used.  The one thing that is not uncertain is its beauty and culture.  The Country is stunning and the world is taking notice, Montenegro has been slammed by tourism in the past 3-4 years, so they are doing well due to the influx of money.  Costs here are quite low (4-star hotel - $34, typical lunch - $4), which makes for an inexpensive and satisfying couple of days.

The city of Kotor is a big draw due to its deep water port which allows cruise ships convenient access to the ancient walled city.  One neat thing about the bay, during the Cold War it was used by both the Soviet and Yugoslav navies for stealth and protective submarine parking.  They chiseled out deep berths in the mountains to protect the ships.  Nowadays, during the summer, these berths are explored by swimmers and kayaks.

Kotor, Montenegro

Kotor, Montenegro

Bar, Montenegro

Stage Distance: 156 mi (251 km)
Total Distance Traveled: 21,030 mi (33,791 km) 
Countries/Territories Visited: USA, Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Uruguay, Canada, Portugal, Spain, Morocco, Gibraltar, France, Monaco, Italy, Vatican City, San Marino, Slovenia, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland, Ukraine, Transnistria, Moldova, Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Montenegro

Trip Issues - Middle East - Part 3

OK, here we go again.  Instead of getting closer to my intended route, I just took one huge step backwards, or to be more accurate, was pushed backwards.  Apparently, there is a diplomatic issue between the United States and Turkey, and we have stopped issuing visas to one another.  So what was once a 10 minute and 10 dollar process of buy the visa at the border, is now a complete refusal to allow US citizens into Turkey, and vice versa.  All I can do is shake my head and say ... WTF.  

Dubrovnik (aka Kings Landing), Croatia

Riding in this area is nothing less than stunning, there are literally hundreds of adventure/dual sport/touring motorcyclists that have hit the area to ride its roads.  BMW 1200 GS's seems to be the ride of choice, but the Yamaha Tenere and Honda Africa Twin have a pretty healthy showing.  The most noticeably absent bike manufacturer here is Harley-Davidson, although their clones are all around.  On the lower end, there are about a million scooters buzzing all over, they look like allot of fun.

Without any prior research, and not having watched Game of Thrones, I rolled into Dubrovnik.  After all of the small little hamlets, medinas, and walled cities that I have rolled into on this trip, I did not think I could be amazed but yet another one, thus why I did no research.  I was so very wrong.  This place just puts every other walled city to the back of the list.  White marble buildings and walks, high city walls, and fortresses surround the City.  Inside is a maze of pedestrian walks, shops, homes, a school, and a harbor.  Walking into Dubrovnik is like literally walking into medieval life.  I can definitely see why Game of Thrones shoots here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PN63bg_OSL0).  After visiting the ity, I feel almost compelled to watch the series.

Now speaking of Game of Thrones, I have to imagine the show has done wonderful things for the local economy.  Beyond just highlighting the area, you can buy T-shirts, amulets, go on GoT tours that have extras and stand-ins from the show as tour guides, and there is even a copy of the Iron Throne that you can sit upon and get your picture taken.  One thing the local government has done, they have passed ordinances that make shopkeepers keep GoT marketing somewhat hidden, so you are not constantly smacked upon your face with signs or merchandise.  Not sure if the ordinances are a result of foresight or hindsight, but welcome nonetheless.















Stage Distance: 0 mi (0 km)
Total Distance Traveled: 20,874 mi (33,540 km) 
Countries/Territories Visited: USA, Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Uruguay, Canada, Portugal, Spain, Morocco, Gibraltar, France, Monaco, Italy, Vatican City, San Marino, Slovenia, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland, Ukraine, Transnistria, Moldova, Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia

The Croatian Riviera

I have found my new most favorite road.  The road stretches from Trpanj to Mlini, Croatia.  The road is fresh, twisty, turny and has the most incredible views.  To my right were mountains, islands, and the Adriatic Sea, to my left were vineyards and wonderful little homes dotting the hillside.  The ride was very reminiscent of Italy, but the views are better, it is less crowded, and there is more of it.  My recommendation for a new marketing slogan. "Croatia, all the Italy at half the Price."  Croatia is quickly becoming one of my favorite countries in the world.  Who woulda thunk it.








Stage Distance: 165 mi (265 km)Total Distance Traveled: 20,874 mi (33,540 km) 
Countries/Territories Visited: USA, Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Uruguay, Canada, Portugal, Spain, Morocco, Gibraltar, France, Monaco, Italy, Vatican City, San Marino, Slovenia, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland, Ukraine, Transnistria, Moldova, Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia

Split, Croatia

Rolled into Split, a very cool city built on the Adriatic back in the early 300's CE.  Split is comprised of marble lined buildings with very thin snaking walks meandering throughout.  A very interesting place to explore. With the exception of the Palace, the interior of the City has been rebuilt over time as architectural styles have changed.  Since its inception, the City has changed hands many times, with the most owners occurring in the past 100 years, to include: Italy, France, Germany, Hungary, Yugoslavia, and is now officially part of Croatia.

Old Town Split

The original ruler and Palace builder, Diocletian, was on excellent terms with what is now Egypt, received many gifts, and as such, Split has numerous Egyptian artifacts (columns, sphinxes, etc) about the City.  After the fall of Yugoslavia, as outsiders starting coming in with more frequency, they began to notice the Egyptian artifacts, most notably, artifacts that were being used as door stops, paper weights, wall decorations. and garden ornaments.  Apparently, the owners having been blocked from the outside world, did not understand the value of the artifacts.  Must have been a nice surprise for them when they found out.

The Palace

Greta at the Adriatic

European Leg ... So Far

Stage Distance: 150 mi (242 km)
Total Distance Traveled: 20,709 mi (33,275 km) 
Countries/Territories Visited: USA, Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Uruguay, Canada, Portugal, Spain, Morocco, Gibraltar, France, Monaco, Italy, Vatican City, San Marino, Slovenia, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland, Ukraine, Transnistria, Moldova, Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia