Tuesday, March 19, 2019

Laos - Back to the South and Into Thailand

Mikes final days have both come and gone, and he is on his way back to the States.  He did send a final blog entry (it fair to say he likes blogging), but I have some thoughts of my own on this  entry, so his input will come in a bit.  



The trip was diverted from taking the western route to the more direct southern route of of Vang Vieng.  The reason for the change in direction is that my dear Greta had sprung an oil leak, and with no qualified mechanics in Vang Vieng, the decision was made to buy a couple of liters of oil and try to make to one.  The plan was, depending on the amount of oil loss, to either limp to Vientiane where there was a semi-qualified mechanic and no parts, or push it to Udon Thani (just across the border in Thailand) where there is a very qualified mechanic, but no parts, or push it to Bangkok where there are both qualified mechanics and parts.  Of course there was the real possibility that the bike would of dumped her oil along the route, and I would of had to slide a truck driver some cash to toss in the back of his bed.  Well, luck was with me, and I made it to Bangkok with less than a liter of oil loss.  So fortune blessed me.  



The only bizarre part of the trip was crossing into Thailand at the Friendship Bridge.  Both Laos and Thailand had trouble with the Carnets.  I had to help both officials fill them out as they were not familiar with the form.  Apparently, they do not get many.  That being said, they did know the form was required, and both sides were very appreciative of the help, and were generally very nice about the situation.  To be honest, I tend to get border anxiety, always thinking that I will not make it across.  I have crossed well over a hundred land borders in my life, and with just two shakedowns, one each in Costa Rica and India (which I did not pay, and got the perpetrators in deep shit), the border control guards have been very helpful and accommodating.  I have never been denied a crossing.  The trick is when things go sideways, don;t get angry, and try to be supportive to them, and they will help you, and if that doesn't work, go to their superior.  .  

Mike's Final Thoughts on Lao - Sitting in Bangkok waiting for my flight from my stopover in Beijing and Wow, these last 11 days went by in what seems like a blink of an eye. Huge props to Ken for putting up with my horrid riding and giving me helpful tips along the way.  Just hope the skills I learned don’t fade away before I can get back out on a bike after winter losses its grip on the NE USA.

Looking back, I enjoyed the mountain rural area the most. The ramshackle towns were almost completely absent outside tourists. Ken and I only ran into two other westerners on two wheels, one was riding her bicycle thru Laos and exploring her roots as she was half Laotian. and the other an adventure motorcyclist who has been traveling the world for the last seven years. 

Here are some overall observations of the trip

Weather:  in three words - hot, smhaze and dust. I was expecting warm but not 100+ days which makes for some very tiring riding.  Smhaze is our word for the combination of smoke and haze.  There is so much burning going on in the dry season that we didn’t see a blue sky once in our trip. And dusty goes for dry season.  Every inch of the roadside towns are all coated in a thick layer of brown moon dust type dirt  and both Ken and I spent most of the week coughing up what collected in our lungs during the day.  It was very different to see all the woman/girls on their bicycles and scooters holding umbrella’s to shield them from the sun.

Roads - well they mostly suck. The two main contributors to the crater sized pothole strewn road system is 1) natural and 2) Chinese construction. In the northern part of the country with its steep mountains and switchback roads you quickly loose count of the number of places the road has been hastily put back together after a rainy season landslide. In fact, it appears that they are just getting close to finishing up repairing roads from the last rainy season.  As for Chinese construction, I’ll expand on that later, but the main side result of all the huge trucks is that the Lao roads are just disintegrating and the Chinese have no interest in repairing the damage they are causing.  Getting around the country on motorcycle is manageable but I can’t fathom getting to places like Luang Prabang on a bus. 

Infrastructure /housing. - while basic electrical and data infrastructure exists into even the smallest most remote villages, forget about sewer or garbage infrastructure.  As soon as you ride a short distance outside the villages you find where they just dump the garbage down the side of a hill. The small villages are typical third world combination of wood and tin shacks.  The more developed villages start to have homes made of concrete/brick with tile roofs and the cities have multi-story concrete and brick construction.  Nowhere in the country did I see steel multi-story construction, but we did see the use of steel for framing of some of the homes and shops in the larger towns. 


Now for the Chinese infrastructure.  They are spending billions and billions on the largest scale infrastructure projects you can imagine.  Huge hydroelectric dams on every river that can support them and a bullet train line that will connect China all the way to Vientiane. The Chinese construction is all 100% Chinese workers living in man camps, with their own stores, and they contribute nothing to the local economy.  As is typical with Chinese, they will not hire locally. In a few short years, I anticipate there will be far more Chinese in Lao than Laotians.


Food – The surrounding landscape is comprised of, as I estimate, 80% agriculture, so there is always a healthy abundance of vegetables and protein available.  You can see the fresh items in the morning markets that end up at the street dining and established “restaurants”.   As for drinks. it’s Lao Beer that appears to have the bulk of the market share.  The beer is everywhere and 90% of the bottled water is also LBC. We did see some Coke-a-Cola water, but not as abundant as the local brand. 

The people are fantastic. Friendly, resourceful and seemingly very happy. If they could communicate with us, they would do whatever it takes to help, and even if they didn’t understand, they would invest a lot of effort through pointing, using calculators etc. aid in the communication.  Some of the more tourist locations the locals and Chinese would ask for a picture with us - being westerners and tall. That honestly was a bit weird thinking that when they get back part of what they would show their family and friends were pictures of them with some white guys they didn’t know.  The children, as I mentioned in an earlier post were terrific. Friendly and always waving. 



I had high hopes for the trip and it surpassed them on every level.  It is hard to begin the transition back to the western world and corporate life but I am so glad of the memories and changes that this trip has made for me.

Leg Distance:  519 mi (837 km)
Total Distance Traveled by Motorcycle: 36,908 mi (60,371 km)

Countries/Territories Visited: USA, Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Uruguay, Canada, Portugal, Spain, Morocco, Gibraltar, France, Monaco, Italy, Vatican City, San Marino, Slovenia, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland, Ukraine, Transnistria, Moldova, Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo, Macedonia, Greece, Turkey, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, China (for 20 seconds), India, Nepal, Burma, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam

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