Osh, Kyrgystan

Today I headed out for Tajikistan on some of the most scenic roads I have ever ridden.  The roads were twisty, turny, and had massive grade changes, they were essentially every motorcyclists dream. This is a welcome change since I have not seen a mountain pass since central Turkey.  Interestingly enough, central and southern Kyrgyzstan is starting to become not only an adventure bikers dream, but their destination vacation.  Since my departure from Western Europe, I have encountered only a small handful of fellow riders, but on this stretch of road alone I passed maybe a dozen or so, and this in a country that does not have a single motorcycle dealership.  Apparently, at least one European adventure travel agency has set up shop in southern Kyrgyzstan and offers guided tours and motorcycle rentals for this area.  At the time, this seemed a bit immaterial, but this little observation would become very important very quickly.   

The second half of this wildly scenic ride was met with cold driving rain and high wind.  I believe I would of been quite miserable if the roads were not so incredible.  I descended out of the mountains and into an intermittent valley to find a much needed gas station.  I gassed up, grabbed some food, and sat on the curb and ate.  Looking over at Greta, I noticed oil coming out of the main hub of her rear wheel.  I looked more closely, and part a strap had come loose from the bike, a piece of it was torn off and sucked up into the hub destroying the main seal and causing the leak.  The rear brakes no longer worked, and to be honest, at this point I thought I had damaged the brake caliper, not the hub (the hub oil had gotten on the brake disk).  Unfortunately, I still had 70 miles to go to my next stop.  So in the driving rain, I crossed another mountain range with dozens of switch backs, all on an injured Greta.  Two exhausting hours later I rolled into Osh, thankful to not have rear-ended anybody or gone off a cliff. 

Now what to do?  With no motorcycle service centers or dealers for literally 1,000 km, I was kinda stuck.  Well, remembering all of the adventure riders passing me, I started looking for the touring company that was supplying their bikes.  By the grace of luck, the company (MuzzToo) was located just 3 miles from where I was staying, so I went and visited them.  They were extremely helpful, pulled the back of the bike apart, found the issue, and then started making calls, within an hour they found the proper size seal (from a machine shop supplier), and it will be here on Monday.  So with luck, I will be on my way to Tajikistan Monday night or Tuesday morning.  The motorcycle brotherhood is extremely strong in this part of the world, and as I come to learn, it is the only way to survive here.  




Leg Distance: 432 mi (696 km)
Total Distance Traveled by Motorcycle: 27,149 mi (43,787 km) 

Countries/Territories Visited: USA, Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Uruguay, Canada, Portugal, Spain, Morocco, Gibraltar, France, Monaco, Italy, Vatican City, San Marino, Slovenia, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland, Ukraine, Transnistria, Moldova, Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo, Macedonia, Greece, Turkey, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan

Trip Issues 9

I went to the Pakistan embassy here in Bishkek to apply for a visa.  My plan was to just drop off the application, but oddly enough I was called back to see the Ambassador for an on-the-spot-interview. Typical questions were asked to include: anticipated date of transit, mode of transportation, path, entry and exit points, who would be joining along, my religion, etc,. etc. etc.  The Ambassador and his assistant took particular interest on my planned route, which seemed logical, until he strongly suggested, more like insisted, that I take a route that would bring me through Afghanistan.  After kindly explaining to him that I was not interested in driving though an active war zone, he again pushed his point informing me that my intended route, China, is boring, and that Afghanistan is much more scenic.  I was a little baffled by the suggestion, as was his assistant.  I am not sure if he was trying to get me to admit that I had been to Afghanistan before (which I had, but did not admit to), or his nice bubbly demeanor was a ruse to have me killed off by either the Taliban, Al Quieda, ISIS, or possibly all three simultaneously.  The interview lasted 45 minutes, and at the end, he told me that he did not see an issue with getting a visa to transit his country, I just needed a letter from the US Embassy stating that they did not object to the transit.

So,  I registered for the next next possible appointment at the US Embassy, which was three days later.  I went in through three security check points, all aware of my visit, to meet with Embassy personnel.  I explained the situation, and they flat out refused to provide a letter.  Their response, "they can look it up online and see that we do not restrict our citizens travels."   I explained to the representative that this is their country and their requirement..  And again, in an ignorant, albeit pleasant manner, I got the response "We are the Department of State, we do not write letters."  Nor support US Citizens abroad, apparently.

So, after multiple attempts (this post is "Trip Issues 9" and all of the other "Trip Issues" posts involve Pakistan), at multiple embassies, I am foiled by my own government.  This seems that I will have to transit the 600 miles by air (Tajikistan to India).  This sucks.

Lake Issyk-Kul, Kyrgyzstan

After running around Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) obtaining visas, bike repairs, shipments from home (thanks Mike), and other nit-picky things, I decided to head out of the City and see what makes Kyrgyzstan one of the most beautiful places on the planet.  The country in this Country is wild, untouched, and serene with amazing landscapes on all sides.  The trip brought me all the way out to Karakol, a small little town on the eastern side of Lake Issyk-Kul.  The ride out was long, slow going, but scenically rewarding.  

Tian Shan Mountains

The only negative part of the trip were the dozens of police traps.  Notice I didn't say speeds traps, because that is not what they were.  The traps mostly consisted of pulling over luxury automobiles (Mercedes, Lexus, etc.).  Probably a good time to point out the the police here are quite corrupt.  Their approach is quite similar to Colombia, Peru, Bosnia, well, all corrupt police, they ask for your documents, accuse you of a made up charge, then hold your documents hostage for cash.  Typically the amount "requested" is $200-$400 (always in US currency).  I usually argue with them, cause chaos, wear them down, and then after 45 minutes of this, I get my documents back without paying up, and then I go on my way (I did end up in jail once using this approach).  So here in Kyrgyzstan, I was pulled over twice on my way up to the Lake, once for going 78 kph in a 60 kph zone (I was actually doing around 40 kph), and the second time for doing 20 kph over the speed limit, when I asked what was the limit was, the cop looked confused and responded with the same answer, "20 kph over the limit," My theory was that he basically had no idea what the limit was where the trap was set up.  During the shake down, I walked over as he was "shooting" other cars, and his speed gun was not even turned on.  My theory was pretty much proved.  On the first stop, the cops (three of them) and I went through the routine, I handed over my documents, heard my charge, informed it was only payable in cash, and then came the amount, "five -hundred...," oooooh damn, I stared getting instantly mad, about ready to pounce and call him out for being corrupt and preparing myself for battle, and then he said "...som," which is the local currency.  The three man shake-down team took for me $6.45.  I just paid, it wasn't worth the 45 minute argument.   I got wise on the second stop, and just handed him 200 som (less than three dollars), retrieved my documents, and left.  Integrity is apparently pretty cheap here.  Weirdest shake downs of my entire trip.  

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Lake Issyk Kul and Tian Shan Mountains

Lake Route

Back in Bishkek, I went to a local small motorcycle shop (all motorcycle shops here are very small and out of the way) to buy a new battery.  The owner was very nice and invited me to his motorcycle club's house for dinner.  I met many individuals, all very cool, interested and supportive, and they are helping me map out the most scenic route for a Kyrgyzstan/Tajikistan three week tour. Apparently, passable roads, accommodations, food and fuel are very difficult to come by in this part of the world, so this is very valuable information and should lead to a fantastic trip.  More to come.

Leg Distance: 646 mi (1042 km)
Total Distance Traveled by Motorcycle: 26,717 mi (43,091 km) 

Countries/Territories Visited: USA, Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Uruguay, Canada, Portugal, Spain, Morocco, Gibraltar, France, Monaco, Italy, Vatican City, San Marino, Slovenia, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Czech Republic, Poland, Ukraine, Transnistria, Moldova, Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo, Macedonia, Greece, Turkey, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan